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Thread: Jango's 2nd attempt......

  1. #441
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    May 2014
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    grimsby
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    Looks alright to be fair Jango

  2. #442
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    Jan 2011
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    South Wales
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    206
    thats a really good job, well done jango.

  3. #443
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    Aug 2015
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    Romsey
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    591
    Thanks guys. I'd better get good at using filler on those arches

  4. #444
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    Aug 2015
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    Romsey
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    I have a new dilemma that I'd like some opinions on.

    I have been offered a P reg TDI golf for free ( might be an ALH but I've only seen a photo of the tailgate). It runs but took a knock on the front corner and is sat in a barn just around the corner.

    I wanted a PD as all the cool kids like the reliability and tuneability.

    Is it worth taking this golf which won't have a PD but will cost nothing to get home, I know it runs and the owner used it for years until a ditch jumped out in front of her. The savings would go towards a complete strip down and rebuild, new injectors, refurbed turbo, pump, rings etc etc.
    Or would it be better to find a PD?

    All ideas welcome as I'd hate to make a bad choice and hate driving my caddy after years of toiling!

  5. #445
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    Dec 2009
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    Inverness
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    632
    I doubt its an alh at p reg.

  6. #446
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    Aug 2015
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    Romsey
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScotClayShooter View Post
    I doubt its an alh at p reg.
    Ok. I guess my real question should be, 'Should I seeker a PD or will any TDI be ok for a donor?'

  7. #447
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    United Kingdom
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    47
    Quote Originally Posted by Jango View Post
    Ok. I guess my real question should be, 'Should I seeker a PD or will any TDI be ok for a donor?'
    An older VE based engine will be easier to wire up, and with some minor tuning / chips; cheap injectors and some love will make good reliable power.
    Being a P reg probably means it'll be an AHU engine, which uses an older wastegate style turbo; similar to petrols.
    Super easy engines to work on and very reliable; as all old TDI's are. Plus, you can run the old stuff (pre-PD) on veg oil and get away with it. Buddy of mine is currently running 148whp with 80% veg on a VE90 with a 110 turbo and .216 injectors.

    Wiring should be easier for the VE engines too, given they are often all CE2. Little easier to swap in and none of the weird modern rubbish to get in the way.
    Caddy MK2 1.9 SDI (ALH swap incoming), Seat Inca 1.9 SDI, Static Polo Estate 1.9 TDI (AHU), Aired Golf MK4 1.9 PD130

  8. #448
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Shropshire
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    1,598
    I'm currently running 130whp and it's plenty fun and pulls hard to 60, but doesn't have too much past that (that being said my nerve runs out of puff before it does ).

    I hope to upgrade this year to similar to Taggy (200 ponies and 300 ft / lb)

    All depends what you're aiming for, 100 horsepower would be plenty to keep up with modern traffic, anything past that makes it a bit more wild

  9. #449
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    Dec 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuus View Post
    I'm currently running 130whp and it's plenty fun and pulls hard to 60, but doesn't have too much past that (that being said my nerve runs out of puff before it does ).

    I hope to upgrade this year to similar to Taggy (200 ponies and 300 ft / lb)

    All depends what you're aiming for, 100 horsepower would be plenty to keep up with modern traffic, anything past that makes it a bit more wild
    I've just picked up a new Cordoba Estate (6K chassis). It's a 110 with .216, uprated clutch and plenty of go in the tune. Floating around 160bhp. It goes; and keeps going (even beyond 60...)

    100 is certainly enough for modern traffic in a Caddy of any kind, at least the older stuff.
    Caddy MK2 1.9 SDI (ALH swap incoming), Seat Inca 1.9 SDI, Static Polo Estate 1.9 TDI (AHU), Aired Golf MK4 1.9 PD130

  10. #450
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Inverness
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    632
    My van runs 151hp 380nm and flies between 50 and 75, 90 is there pretty sharp as well . getting grip in the first 2 gears is the tricky bit .
    ASV 110hp engine ,fake cat downpipe , center box delete,pd130/150 inlet and egr delete generic 140hp ASV map.
    Bored shitless with it now! Roll on 230hp

  11. #451
    I wouldnt waste your time with an old VE engine. PDs are no more complicated to wire up and are easier to get an immo delete.

    If they are std with a VE then fine, fuck about with it. But if your doing a conversion a PD gives much more power throughout the rev range, better fuel consumption and are easier (cheaper) to get more power out of. I.e. a PD130 will map to around 180 which is the limit of the turbo and a 150 will map to 200hp as the turbo has billet internals. And the torque is far greater than the VE

  12. #452
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Romsey
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    591
    Plenty to consider. Thanks guys.
    I guess my decision is based upon having a free engine that I may not appreciate in time, or buy a donor and have an engine that I can map, alter and enjoy in different ways as my taste changes over time.
    I'll graciously decline the offer of a free car and begin my search for a PD when my shell is complete.
    That said, the world might be running on electric motors by the time I get my shell sorted!!
    Last edited by Jango; 02-05-2019 at 05:48 AM.

  13. #453
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Shropshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jango View Post
    begin my search for a PD
    I don't think you'll regret it

    You'll be wanting a PD130 (ASZ code) or 150 (ARL code), supplied in MK4 Golfs, Seat Leons, Seat Ibiza's, Some Skodas, Some Audis etc, there are quite a few car options. Avoid longitudinal engines (Passats / Audi A4s) as it'll make the process more complicated.

    I would say the only big decision in the process is 5 or 6 spd
    6 spd:
    pros: comes with the car and longer ratios (box dependent), can use existing flywheel and clutch
    cons: heavier, no mechanical speedo output
    5 spd:
    pro: lighter, reasonable ratios if you get the right box (Highly recommend the Seat Ibiza Sport box I picked up), speedo output.
    cons: extra purchase, bit of a faff connecting the box to the engine, have to buy flywheel and clutch also
    Last edited by fuus; 02-05-2019 at 10:40 AM.

  14. #454
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Romsey
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    591
    Quote Originally Posted by fuus View Post
    I don't think you'll regret it

    You'll be wanting a PD130 (ASZ code) or 150 (ARL code), supplied in MK4 Golfs, Seat Leons, Seat Ibiza's, Some Skodas, Some Audis etc, there are quite a few car options. Avoid longitudinal engines (Passats / Audi A4s) as it'll make the process more complicated.

    I would say the only big decision in the process is 5 or 6 spd
    6 spd:
    pros: comes with the car and longer ratios (box dependent), can use existing flywheel and clutch
    cons: heavier, no mechanical speedo output
    5 spd:
    pro: lighter, reasonable ratios if you get the right box (Highly recommend the Seat Ibiza Sport box I picked up), speedo output.
    cons: extra purchase, bit of a faff connecting the box to the engine, have to buy flywheel and clutch also
    Thanks Rufus, I will definitely be using this info when the hunt begins. It seems so far away but I'll keep chipping away.

  15. #455
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    United Kingdom
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    47
    Quote Originally Posted by fuus View Post
    I don't think you'll regret it

    You'll be wanting a PD130 (ASZ code) or 150 (ARL code), supplied in MK4 Golfs, Seat Leons, Seat Ibiza's, Some Skodas, Some Audis etc, there are quite a few car options. Avoid longitudinal engines (Passats / Audi A4s) as it'll make the process more complicated.

    I would say the only big decision in the process is 5 or 6 spd
    6 spd:
    pros: comes with the car and longer ratios (box dependent), can use existing flywheel and clutch
    cons: heavier, no mechanical speedo output
    5 spd:
    pro: lighter, reasonable ratios if you get the right box (Highly recommend the Seat Ibiza Sport box I picked up), speedo output.
    cons: extra purchase, bit of a faff connecting the box to the engine, have to buy flywheel and clutch also

    Regarding the 6 speed 5 speed. On a standard Diesel 02J the 5th gear is not far off from the 6th on a 130/150 box.

    If you want a long box, get a PD115 6 speed gearbox, code DRW. These are longer than the 130/150 boxes in the final 2 gears so give better economy (and higher top speed )

    As far as engines, BLT from Ibizas / Fabias work well, VRS and TDI Sports.

    ASZ are more popular. If you don't mind missing injectors I'll have one for sale soon
    Caddy MK2 1.9 SDI (ALH swap incoming), Seat Inca 1.9 SDI, Static Polo Estate 1.9 TDI (AHU), Aired Golf MK4 1.9 PD130

  16. #456
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    591
    All this help and advice is hugely appreciated chaps. I have much shopping ahead. However, I must get this shell sorted before I start spending. I may need more panels and skills at this point. I will return to beg for your advice as soon as possible. Thanks all, once again.

  17. #457
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    591
    Slowly slowly, I'm getting there. The welding is still improving but still not as pretty as the work shown on this forum.

    20190506_162540.jpg

    I'm nearing the end of my work on the rear end of the caddy. I hadn't envisaged any of the work I had to do when I bought it. But that's the joy of it all I guess.

  18. #458
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    591
    Can anyone help me plan for the next step please. I know I'm a little way from having my shell all welded and rust free but I just can't decide what's best.
    Do I...
    Put seam sealer over every weld and overlap (there's tonnes on the wheel arches as you can see on my previous post).
    Then epoxy mastic primer everything? Just the underside and use something else on the upward facing parts like the top of my chassis rails? The bed has not been put on yet.
    I have a really cheap shit spray gun that came with a pack of other cheap air powered items, will that be ok for spraying epoxy mastic?
    I've been looking at the Bilt Hamber products, they look decent.
    I may need to do a truckload of learning.
    Am I asking the right questions? should I get an adult to help me?
    Penny for your thoughts folk.

  19. #459
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    grimsby
    Posts
    142
    OK so I'm in a similar position and here's what I'm intending, I've been covering all the bare metal as iv gone along with zinc primer and gonna continue till all the repairs are done,

    After this I intend to return to the rotisserie so I can degrease the shell as a whole and seam seal where it needs it in one go,

    Once set, waxoil the cavities and coat the underside in schutz with a schutz gun and compressor,

    Then its off to the paint shop coz I don't feel comfortable doing the nice bits

    But that's just me

  20. #460
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    591
    Thanks LJ. I've got so many seams that I feel as if I may end up plastering huge areas with the stuff!

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