Page 1 of 6 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 106

Thread: "How To" MK3 Caddy (2K) BLS Engine Conversion to older generation PD TDI

  1. #1

    "How To" MK3 Caddy (2K) BLS Engine Conversion to older generation PD TDI

    BLS to ASZ or ARL Engine Conversion

    Chances are that you are reading this because your Caddy that is fitted with the engine code BLS and has put a connecting rod through the block!?! Or you just want to just fit a stronger engine for an increase in power? Well this “how to” deals with both!

    Second hand BLS engines are overpriced due to the high failure rates, but who wants one of those anyway? Just for it to throw a rod again in the not too distant future! The engine of choice is the ASZ or ARL MK4 generation engine that is marked “AA” on the block, these engines have larger crankshaft journals and are proven to last, even at higher horsepower power outputs. The ASZ & ARL are 130 & 150hp engines. The engine internals are identical on both of these except for that the ARL has stronger head bolts. External ancillary items vary slightly; the ASZ has a smaller turbo and does not have the EGR cooler for example.

    So it doesn’t matter which you choose as they are both strong units.

    In my opinion its always better to buy a complete donor car as there are a few other bits you will need as well as other optional parts, for example the 6 speed gearbox mated to the ASZ & ARL can also be fitted along with the engine which makes a very worthwhile upgrade (please see our 6sp conversion “How To” for more info.

    Ok so let’s get on with it, I’m not going to go through the procedure bolt by bolt but will only comment on key points in the conversion.

    1. Prepare your replacement engine by removing all of its ancillaries
    2. Replace Cam Belt & tensioner
    3. Remove the old knackered engine & gearbox from you Caddy (that was easy )
    4. Once removed it’s probably a good time to jet wash the old engine and the Caddy engine bay as it will most likely be smothered in oil due to the gaping hole in the block!
    5. Now carefully remove all of the ancillaries from the Caddy BLS engine as you will need these.

    Looking at your ASZ/ARL block you will notice some significant differences from the BLS, the main different is the crank sensor layout, the ASZ/ARL engines have the sensor bolted to the block which is triggered by a 60-2 trigger wheel which is built onto the crankshaft, whereas the BLS has the has the sensor and trigger built into the rear main oil seal. The biggest problem here is that these are controlled by different generations of ECU “EDC15 & EDC16” respectively, and I’m not 100% sure that the EDC16 ECU will read the 60-2 trigger wheel! So for that reason I chose not to take any chances so went about modifying the block to accept the later crank seal & sensor.

    PLEASE NOTE: You cannot reuse the seal from your old BLS engine as these have Teflon seals and if you try to reuse it the seal will turn and it WILL leak. Although you can remove the sensor and reuse that. Another reason is that these seals need to be fitted in the correct position or the timing will be out, please consult your manual for setting this up, but as a guide it should align like this.

    cranksensor2k.jpg

    6. Once you have removed the flywheel you can gain access to where the block needs to be cut, my preferred method was to “line drill” and then chip out what was left, then I used a burring tool to tidy up and grind further metal away. You can use the old crank seal to offer up to save damaging the new seal, once your happy that you have the clearance needed for the sensor you can go ahead and fit & time the new seal.

    IMG_3143.jpg

    IMG_3147.jpg

    IMG_3149.jpg

    7. If using the 6sp 02M gearbox you will also need to cut a small piece away from the sandwich plate so it clears the new sensor you have just installed.

    IMG_3168.jpg

    8. Refit the flywheel with NEW stretch bolts and tighten to 60nm + 90 degrees
    9. If using the 6sp gearbox, now is a good time to check the condition of the DMF and replace the clutch.
    10. If keeping the Caddys 5 speed then the same as the above applies
    11. Fit & align clutch
    12. Bolt gearbox to engine

    The second difference on the block is that the mating face for the oil filter housing is different, so for this reason the ASZ/ARL housing must be retained, and the third is that there is an extra water outlet in the block.

    13. Because of the differences above you will need to retain the ASZ/ARL water housing at the end of the head, this has the extra water outlet which is lacking in the front of the block as mentioned above. Connect like this

    IMG_3201.jpg

    14. Now you can fit all the rest of the engine ancillaries from the BLS to your ASZ/ARL engine.
    15. You will notice that there are no mounting points at the back of the block for the BLS EGR cooler! Here you have 2 choices; 1. You remove the cooler altogether and fit and EGR delete pipe (this will also need mapping out of your ECU), or 2. You can make up your own bracket to hold the cooler in place.

    Removed EGR & Cooler
    IMG_3214.jpg

    16. If you chose to remove the EGR cooler you will now have to alter the water pipe so that it goes direct from the housing on the end of the head direct to the heater matrix on the bulkhead.
    17. Because you have retained the oil filter housing, the wiring for the oil pressure switch needs to be altered as the switch is on opposite sides, this is just a case of pulling the wiring for the switch connector out of the convoluted tubing

    IMG_3206.jpg

    IMG_3207.jpg

    IMG_3208.jpg

    18. Because you have used the MK4 water housing with the extra outlet, this now limits the room for the turbo boost pipe, so a new bracket will have to be made up

    IMG_3213.jpg

    The boost pipe would normally run underneath the housing not beside

    IMG_3212.jpg

    The engine is now ready to be installed into you Caddy

    IMG_3211.jpg

    To be updated & continued soon...................
    Last edited by Al; 28-07-2015 at 09:30 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Istanbul
    Posts
    2
    Hi Al,

    Thank a lot for the detailed post. I also red your comments on pistonheads, very helpful.
    I have a Golf Mk5 1.9 TDi (105hp) with the notorious BXE engine. Like with everybody else, it threw a conrod.
    I'm in a bit of a dilemma and would appreciate your input.

    I have two options here. 1) Buy a new 130hp engine block (ASZ) and get it converted as per your above instructions. My previous car was a Golf Mk4 1.9 TDi (130hp) and I never had any problems. So I'm tempted to go with this but I fear that if the mechanic doesn't do the conversion properly I could end up with more headache.

    2) alternatively buy a complete 105hp BJB engine. It's approx. 30% more expensive as the dealer wants to sell the entire engine, not just the engine block, giving me also a brand new turbo and cylinder head. The key here is; is the BJB as fragile as the BXE??

    What would you recommend? Buy the ASZ engine block and get it converted or pay 30% more and get a complete BJB engine?

    Thanks a lot!
    Last edited by asogut; 03-08-2015 at 10:45 AM.

  3. #3
    There is nothing inherently wrong with the BJB engine. BUT the BJB still has the old style block, so will require the same modifications above as the ASZ / ARL

    So if the ASZ or ARL is cheaper for you to buy then do it that way because they have larger crankshaft journals than the BJB

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Istanbul
    Posts
    2
    Good to hear that BJB is not as fragile as BXE engines.
    If I go for the BJB option, it's going to come as a complete engine, not just the engine block.
    Would that still require the modifications? Forgive my ignorance

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    24
    Hi Al, how is this going for you? I've just seen a nice 2008 caddy with a knackered engine and I have a spare mk4 Golf with an asz lying about that I just picked up. I am tempted to swap the clocks and everything I can to just retain the EDC15 management. Trying to get the EDC16 ECU right might be a bit tricky .

  6. #6
    Will be more hassle to get the wiring sorted to EDC15 as none of the canbus will be compatible.

    The mods to the block are easy enough

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Poland
    Posts
    2
    You can insert more photos ? I bought arl

  8. #8
    More photos of what in particular?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Poland
    Posts
    2
    I have a hole in bls , I bought arl engine and gearbox with Skoda ( 5) and clutch VR6 . I would like more photos as the engine is in the car , from the top , from the bottom , which snakes I have to buy

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chatham
    Posts
    3
    Hi all, got a question for ya, got a bls automatic caddy with hole in block, can get an asz engine but been told twice that it can't be done because it's an auto, does anyone know if there's any truth in this?? Thanks

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Orkney
    Posts
    6
    Hi, This may be kind of related - I have an 06 caddy 1.9tdi with bad engine and gearbox. Something is gone in the head, getting blow back through the intake and she's only running on 3, suspected dropped / damaged intake valve. 1st gear nearly impossible to select, may just be linkage, may be worn syncro. Dmf is also rattling. So altogether needing a fair bit of work. I have acquired a 51 plate sharan for free, has good engine and box, thinking to transplant. Will this be just the same process as above?

  12. #12
    blow back through the intake is normally down to a knackered camshaft.

    The Sharan head will fit, but the gearbox is completely different

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Orkney
    Posts
    6
    I was hoping I could swap the complete engine and gearbox so I could have a 130 6 speed in the van

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    HEATHROW
    Posts
    12
    HI AL

    THANK YOU FOR YOUR POST, IM GOING TO HAVE TO NOW DO THIS CONVERTION MYSELF, DONT SPOZ YOU DO THEM

    D

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kent, St Marys Bay
    Posts
    47
    Sorry to Bring up an old thread! But I presume this is all the same for the AJM 115 from a mk4 golf?

    Thanks

  16. #16
    pretty much yes, any early block will need modifying

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kent, St Marys Bay
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by Al View Post
    pretty much yes, any early block will need modifying
    Sweet! I picked up a low mileage AJM and 6 speed box
    so will hopefully swap the BLS with that, this weekend

    Sorry for all the questions! Are the gear mech the same for the 5 and 6 speed?

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Deanow24 View Post
    Sweet! I picked up a low mileage AJM and 6 speed box
    so will hopefully swap the BLS with that, this weekend

    Sorry for all the questions! Are the gear mech the same for the 5 and 6 speed?
    have a read through this http://www.vwcaddy.com/showthread.php?78618

    you can keep the cables, but you have to fit the 6sp ends & cable mount

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    manchester
    Posts
    75
    hi al, if i fit a complete 130 can i get the caddy ecu remaped to suit ?

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy View Post
    hi al, if i fit a complete 130 can i get the caddy ecu remaped to suit ?
    yes, but the 130 turbo will not fit unless you use all the early TDi Caddy pipework for the turbo, downpipe etc.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •