came across 'XMAN' yesterday for the first time, seems to do good at a pretty cheap price!
Debating a bigger turbo on my mk1... when its eventually running right
Caddy Modder
came across 'XMAN' yesterday for the first time, seems to do good at a pretty cheap price!
Debating a bigger turbo on my mk1... when its eventually running right
Admin
Yeah, TBH I could not find a used BMP (PD140 8v) turbo and build it up for anywhere near the same price! And he is much cheaper than others offering a similar thing!Originally Posted by curtis1
I also have Bobby Singh lined up to map it as he is not a million miles away from me
Admin
The ASZ block needs modifying to fit the later Caddys with the BLS engine.
This is because the crankshaft trigger wheel is built into the crankshaft which then has the hall sender in the block.
Later VWs have the crank sensor built into the rear main oil seal, so for this to work a hole needs to be cut into the block
Started off by drilling holes
IMG_3143.jpg
Then ground it out with a burring tool
IMG_3147.jpg
Rear main seal / Crank sensor fitted
IMG_3149.jpg
Just need the special tool and a new seal so I can set it in the correct position
Gorilla Welding Tactics Specialist
WTF are you modifying blocks for if you bought a donor???
Alan says: Selling the $hit in the garage pays for new toys
Admin
Because its not worth the hassle of wiring in the MK4 gen EDC15 ECU, canbus is not compatable plus other complications,its easier and better to make the MK4 block run on MK5 gen EDC16 management.
Last edited by Al; 11-09-2015 at 07:58 PM.
Gorilla Welding Tactics Specialist
Ohhhhhh management swap - gotcha!
Alan says: Selling the $hit in the garage pays for new toys
COTY Winner 2009
I've got engine spares .engines if u end u stuck
2.0 tdi bkd blb.and later cr engine .sure I've a one off 2.0 tdi turbo ecu wireing etc gt2052v to bolt on a 2.0 .unless ur useing 8v version
Admin
Cheers mate, im using an 8v and keeping it stock looking
Will give you a shout if I need anything
I think we're alone now
You mentioned using a 2K8 as your daily in another thread, so I wondered.... 'what's a 2K8' and right there in your sig was a link to click,
Jesus christ! pass the eye bleach, and to think you said the delica was special, good job you're only using it to cart dogs around, the local window lickers would refuse.
No offence like.
I had an engine under tray with similar content on an old T4 when a rod snapped due to me using the van as a boat. How did it managed to hole the block when the rod is intact?
Admin
Ha 2K8 is a typo
And be nice to her, its not for carting dogs around, we have the T5 for that
Rod or piston are not intact but still run on 3 cylinders with the gaping hole in the block
Its common for engine codes BLS & BKE to throw a rod, VW are in denial, but those later 8v TDi engine were made of chocolate, hense why im using the earlier "AA" 130/150 block which has a larger main and big end bearings and are pretty much bullet proof.
I will let you have a drive of it at Santa Pod just so you will want a PD
Admin
New toy for the tool collection
IMG_3159.jpg
Caddy Crazy
ooooh look, it's a.......
what the fuck is it?
Admin
Its a rear crankshaft oil seal setting & timing alignment tool
Admin
More stuff from the postie, Leather MFSW
IMG_3161.jpg
Admin
And yet more stuff arrived from Euros & GSF. I still need to go to VW tomorrow to get some other bits before I can start assembly
IMG_3162.jpg
Admin
The tool worked a treat so im happy in the knowledge that the timing is spot on and that I haven't turned the Teflon seal.
To change the seal you are supposed to remove the sump so the sealant can be applied correctly, but im swapping the sump for a better one that I have anyway so will do the sealant when I do that.
IMG_3165.jpg
Note for anyone considering doing this kind of swap; Im also converting to the 6sp 02M gearbox that was mated to the ASZ. But if you are retaining the BLS with 5sp gearbox then you will need to use the BLS sump and associated parts.
The 6sp sandwich plate also needs to be modified slightly to clear the sensor but thats simple enough
IMG_3167.jpg
IMG_3168.jpg
I was hoping to get the flywheel & clutch fitted but Euros sent me solid flywheel bolts, so that halted progress
I think we're alone now
Driven a few through work, and a fair few more on test drives, found them all to be harsh, noisey and lacking in low down stomp. The nicest modern diesel engine I've driven recently is a Ford.I will let you have a drive of it at Santa Pod just so you will want a PD
Interesting swap though, changing the management (whatever that might be
Admin
In between work I have been trying to crack on with this. I bolted the engine back in tonight, but heres some stuff I have been doing
The older PD blocks dont have the water outlet on the block like the later ones, so I used the housing from the MK4 so it kept the water pipe neat, but because of this I had to move the boost pipe over slightly and make a new bracket to hold it in position
IMG_3201.jpg
It was also positioned so that the boost pipe does not fail on the new 6sp linkage
IMG_3213.jpg
Boost pipe would normally sit under the housing
IMG_3212.jpg
removed the EGR & Cooler, its now much neater behind the block
IMG_3214.jpg
Also the oil filter housings are a different shape where they mate to the block, so again the Mk4 one has to be used, this means the wiring needs adjusting slightly for the oil pressure switch as its on opposite sides
IMG_3206.jpg
IMG_3207.jpg
IMG_3208.jpg
Ready to drop in
IMG_3211.jpg
Caddy Wanna Be
Thank you for all the info, i just bought a golf V, and after 3 weeks of driving a conrod broke a hole in the BLS engine block, ill try to fit the asz block to my broken bls block, but im gonna leave my stock turbo and other gadgets. Do you think this is a good idea? :-)
Now its imposible to find a BLS engine cheaper than 1000 euros, so im going to buy the asz one.
Admin
Thought I should update this.
I got it running a few weeks back but it was taking some cranking to get it to start and throwing a cam sensor fault code
So I then noticed that the camshaft pulley hub had different pick up points so had to swap it over in situ which was pain considering I had all this off on the bench beforehand
Hub differences, ASZ (EDC15) vs BLS (EDC16). The actual pulleys are identical and share part numbers
IMG_3366.jpg
The biggest agro doing this in situ is that because the ASZ uses the earlier hydraulic belt tensioner I could not get the engine mount completely out of the way which made me swear a little bit!
Anyway, its now on the button and ready to be MOT'd, then it can be left with Bobby Singh to map it
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