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Thread: Bodywork Preparation Wiki

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    Bodywork Preparation Wiki

    This post will be dedicated to bodywork preparation; sheet metal work, welding, sanding, fillers etc.

    Please add you own experience, terminology, procedures & products, and I will add key info to this first post to make it easy for those searching

    Terminology

    "Sanding" = Sanding down paint or filler!

    "Blocking" = Sanding with a block

    "Block" = Piece of wood, rubber or plastic wrapped in sand paper

    "Sand Paper" = For motor trade use there is actually no sand in sand paper! Normally Aluminium oxide is used, normally found in 40, 60, 80 or 120 grit

    "Wet n Dry" = As its name suggests its a rubbing paper that can be used wet or dry normally found in 120 - 2000 grit

    "Bondo" = American brand of fillers

    "P38" = Davids Isopon Filler

    "P40" = Davids Fibreglass Filler

    "Stopper" = Fine 2k Filler

    "Knifing Putty" = Fine 1k Filler (serves no purpose in modern body techniques IMO)

    "Leading" = Old School way of filling with lead

    "Live Panel" = A panel that has been previously been damaged and has stretched, this makes the panel "pop" in and out with the slightest pressure. It can also happen when a reinforcement bar behind the panel has been damaged and is no longer attached to the panel.

    "Shrinking" = a damaged panel is a stretched panel, shrinking is a method reducing the stretch with a hammer and frequently some heat.

    "Dints" = Tiny dents normally caused by careless drivers opening their car doors onto yours, or caused by hail etc.

    "Dings" = As above

    "Parking Dents" = As above

    Sheet Metalwork & Welding

    When restoring an older vehicle, you will normally start out by removing the rust and welding in fresh sheet metal work for a solid foundation

    Im not going to go into detail at this stage on repairing sheet metal work, but what I will cover is preparing and protecting that fresh metal from corrosion.

    And at this stage its worth pointing out that if you have not removed 100% of the corrosion then it will come back and haunt you

    Preperation & Filling

    Presuming your bodywork is now solid and free from any rust, it time for repairs.

    Dents! all Caddys have them, but depending on the size of the dent will require a different approach

    Please note: It is advisable to remove all paint in the repair area, so basically the filler should only ever touch bare metal. If you fill over paint you will have an edge which you will forever be chasing, these can by covered up by high build primer, but different materials shrink at differing rates, so what may look good now can come back and bite you later.

    Larger dents; Firstly you will want to repair as much as you can before you even consider adding any fillers. Dents can create high spots in the surrounding area so these will need to be dressed down. Also you need to make sure the panel isnt "live" by shrinking it. So once you are happy that the panel is as good as its going to get we can move onto filling.

    Smaller dents & dints; Sometimes these dents are so shallow that by time you have blocked them there is hardly anything less, if that is the case then a fine skim of stopper will surfice.




    Priming & Guide coats
    Last edited by Al; 26-09-2014 at 07:41 PM.

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