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Thread: Gear Selection Problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Glasgow, United Kingdom.
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    152

    Gear Selection Problem

    Hi folks,

    My Cad has had a MK2 TD conversion (previous to me buying it) and I seem to have a similar problem to Keny in Finland, exhaust hitting gear linkage (exhaust is dented so it doesn't seem to cause a problem except an annoying rattle now and again) and some trouble getting certain gears...............here lies my problem............

    Both 1st and 2nd gear are to far over to the left, in fact I have to push down and go over the reverse gate to get them. No problem once it's in gear, just a right pain trying to find them. Especially at the top of a hill, trying to do a hill start in 3rd with 32,000 cars behind you (OK slight exageration).

    I have checked the linkage rods, all seems Ok and I have looked at adjusting the gate but it looks like it would throw the selection out even further.

    Can any one help me with this really f+##ing annoying problem???

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Out(standing) in my field
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    Grey - re: 1st/2nd gate. Change the adjustment of the shift rod (in tunnel) to selector lever (upright piece with "box" at bottom and small ball at top). The rod and lever are serrated. Loosen shift rod clamp & rotate lever 1 or 2 "clicks", moving top of lever toward left. With rod inserted home in lever, tighten clamp.

    When you get it adjusted so the 1-2 gate is right up against the reverse lock-out, you may now find that you can't access 5th gear. This would be a strong indication that your caddy was converted from 4-speed to 5-speed without swapping out the linkage bits that are different. It also could be caused/aggravated by too much wear in the various bushings, ball-joint ends, & shift rod bearing that holds up front of shift rod. R & R these bits as needed. See GTD 5speed box advice needed...

    Re: linkage/exhaust, which part of the linkage is fouling the exhaust?
    Last edited by Iowa Caddy; 02-10-2007 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Updated info

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Washington State
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    2,513
    Just to expand on what Iowa said-
    I've found my favorite way to align the shift linkage is to 1. loosen the shift rod clamp on the selector lever as described by Iowa- just loose enough to be able to rotate the shift rod in the clamp, 2. manually place the transmission in 1st or 2nd gear (this takes some mental thinking on which way to move the transmission selector shaft--if you are standing bent over the left fender, for 2nd gear grab the selector and slide it toward the front of the car, and then rotate it away from you; towards the car's right) 3. give the gearshift lever a couple good side to side jiggles and then put it where it should be (put it where 2nd should be in this case) 4. tighten up the shift rod clamp and you're done.

    EDIT-
    For a slight modification to this procedure (for the better IMHO) check out:
    http://vwcaddyforum.com/showthread.p...6885#post56885
    /edit

    This should do the trick but if you are having trouble finding 5th (if there is a 5th) then like Iowa said, you are a victim of an incomplete conversion. Almost all the linkage parts for the 5 spd are different, including the reverse lockout assbly. though some people will try to tell you that the things are interchangeable. Things that are the same are shift stick, shift rod, relay shaft and bracket, relay lever (I think that's what you call a bellcrank) and all the bushings and stuff.

    If you find the stop finger is keeping you from getting into 5th due to being set up for a 4 spd and you have the proper 5spd linkage parts, you can fix it by hitting up the top of the stop finger with the dremel or grinder and taking off that clearish plastic. It will give you enough extra travel to let you cruise down the highway in 5th. Good luck

    Now that I write this I notice you are UK and I am wondering if you guys even had the 4spd over there[] since by the time the pickup left our shores I think that they were mostly coming with the 5. Anyhow alignment procedure still applies

    Boy, now I also see that if you just follow the link that Iowa's got there, he has all the parts that I listed and [u]part numbers</u> [] So yeah, I guess I'm pretty much saying about the parts what Iowa said a couple months back, sorry.
    Last edited by mortskeg; 15-12-2007 at 11:07 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Glasgow, United Kingdom.
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    Thanks Iowa Cadyy and Mortskeg,

    Thanks for all the help. I was going to try rotating the shaft but was to sure if it would help, but I'll try it now.

    The linkage rods seem to to be the right one but can't be 100% sure. I tried changing the small rod (3" long) that runs from fron to back with 2 other rods that I have but they were to small. I also tried to change the rod that runs from left to right ( one with 2 bends and ball sockets not the one with split pins) with a longer rod but this put 1st gear where 3rd is.

    I will try to rotate the shaft and if anyone knows the correct linkage lengths it would be one thing I could eliminate.

    The UK has got the 4 speed. Did have one.

    Thanks again guys
    Grey-J

  5. #5
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    Ooh- Yeah, If you have a bend in the middle of your rear selector rod, then that is a 4spd part. The 5 is straight and all the ball joint type rods have black plastic. According to the book, the left-right rod that is pinned in place is 263.5mm on 5spd and 260.5mm on 4spd, though I think that having this short by 3mm is not as detrimental as having the wrong front+rear selector rods and reverse lockout housing. I bought new linkages when I went to 5spd and it was pretty cheap, but my stop finger was keeping it from going into 5th, so this is what I had to "modify" before getting a new rev. lockout housing thing.
    If you want to go for the ultimate in linkage adjustability/know that you have the right parts check out VWCaddy's Missing Linkz website- http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    quote:Originally posted by mortskeg

    Ooh- Yeah, If you have a bend in the middle of your rear selector rod, then that is a 4spd part. The 5 is straight and all the ball joint type rods have black plastic. According to the book, the left-right rod that is pinned in place is 263.5mm on 5spd and 260.5mm on 4spd, though I think that having this short by 3mm is not as detrimental as having the wrong front+rear selector rods and reverse lockout housing. I bought new linkages when I went to 5spd and it was pretty cheap, but my stop finger was keeping it from going into 5th, so this is what I had to "modify" before getting a new rev. lockout housing thing.
    If you want to go for the ultimate in linkage adjustability/know that you have the right parts check out VWCaddy's Missing Linkz website- http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/

    Hi Mortskeg,
    Just measured up selector rods - the smaller one that runs from front to back is approx. 12cm, the dog leg one that run side to side is approx. 19cm and the pinned one is approx. 27cm. The two with ball sockets are both black.

    Think I might have to do what you did, turn the main rod and lose 5th and then grind. Reason I'm saying this is that when selecting 5th gear, the gearstick will not go any further in that direction.

    What do you think, any final advice.

    Thanks

    Grey-J

  7. #7
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    grey-j
    Yeah I would definately start out by getting R, 1, and 2nd in the right place the way I described (works good alone) or if you have a friend, you can monkey with it underneath and have your friend see if they are in the right spot. Oh, I should mention that in aligning the way I described earlier you keep yourself from mistakenly getting 3&4 where 1&2 should be. Yes I've done this before and was wondering why I had to give it so much gas to get it to go in 1st and then why can I go 60 in first gear? Just kidding.

    Once you get R, 1, 2 right then I would worry about grinding stuff off for 5th, but if you have wrecking yards nearby I would just go pick up the proper gate-plate-reverse-lockout-metal-mount-fill-in-the-hole-in-the-floor* thing and be done with it. When I picked mine out of the yard last month, all the 5spd A1's had this part still there so I think that they are pretty easy to find.

    And before attempting this I would also ensure that all the bushings had been replaced in the last couple years or there might be too much slop to make it all work. Try not to have [u]too</u> much fun

    *proper name=gearshift lever plate and housing

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Glasgow, United Kingdom.
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    Hi M,

    Would the MK1 GTI have the same gearshift lever plate and housing??? There are absolutely no Caddys in Scotland, a couple driving around but none in scrap yards.

    Also this part is it the gate assembly thingy (gearshift lever plate and housing) that is located underneath the vehicle? Or to you get at it from inside the cab? I was assuming it was underneath but thought I'd better check.

    Thank again Mortskeg
    Grey-J

  9. #9
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    Well to answer your question- this part you deal with underneath the vehicle, but you remove it from inside the cab. Here it is-

    This is the 4 spd lever plate and housing, the way you can tell is that the place where your stop finger usually strikes when you are selecting first or second (arrow) is nearly flat with the horizon, whereas the 5spd has a slight upward bend in the front end I think. Maybe it was the back end, anyhow it's not straight. I think some of the other dim's are different but this is the easiest to see I'm guessing.

    You can pull this out of any mk1/ a1 vehicle w/ a 5 spd, I think I got mine out of a cabriolet. VW changed around the stick shift/reverse lockout part of the linkage with the A2's so these won't have the right part. I don't know how your junk yard situation is over there but if you get in a real bind for one the yard I got mine at has at least 2 more. But again it can be made to work with the 4spd gearshift lever plate and housing.

  10. #10
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    Yeah, that is the bit I thought you meant. Just didn't know if it came out in a oner or in a thousand different pieces.

    Tha junk yard up the road from me has an 83 MK1 Gti so I'll go and steal it from that. []

    Thanks for all the help.
    Grey-J

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Goodyear, az, USA.
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    hi from USA you need to ged the push road from A2 that will fix your problem.

  12. #12
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    quote:Originally posted by euro-90

    hi from USA you need to ged the push road from A2 that will fix your problem.
    Hi Euro90, which part is the push rod???

    Cheers
    Grey-J

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Hanko, Finland.
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    Well I have a frined that works as a spareparts seller in local VW. He checked for me the different betwen 4 and 5 speed linkage and the only differens in europan wersions where the two rods that moves sideways + the plat that attatcher to them and id in the end of shaft that comes from cabin.

    The turbo downpipe for a1 aint produced anymore so one from a braker is only chose.

    Good luck
    Yellow Caddy -85 1.6D diesel SOLD
    Dark Blue T4 Transporter -98 2,5 TDI, dayly ride
    Metallic Gray Seat Leon -06 1.9 TDI PD, wifes

  14. #14
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    Hey grey j If you want caddy parts drive down the road to Durham on the A1M. There is a town near durham called Bishop Auckland a scrapyard called Bells has 4 caddy in there,two 5 speeds and two 4 speeds. Gearboxes and engines fully intact.

  15. #15
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    quote:Originally posted by Chris Hays

    Hey grey j If you want caddy parts drive down the road to Durham on the A1M. There is a town near durham called Bishop Auckland a scrapyard called Bells has 4 caddy in there,two 5 speeds and two 4 speeds. Gearboxes and engines fully intact.
    Cheers Chris
    Grey-J

  16. #16
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    Alameda, ca
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortskeg View Post
    Just to expand on what Iowa said-
    I've found my favorite way to align the shift linkage is to 1. loosen the shift rod clamp on the selector lever as described by Iowa- just loose enough to be able to rotate the shift rod in the clamp, 2. manually place the transmission in 1st or 2nd gear (this takes some mental thinking on which way to move the transmission selector shaft--if you are standing bent over the left fender, for 2nd gear grab the selector and slide it toward the front of the car, and then rotate it away from you; towards the car's right) 3. give the gearshift lever a couple good side to side jiggles and then put it where it should be (put it where 2nd should be in this case) 4. tighten up the shift rod clamp and you're done.

    EDIT-
    For a slight modification to this procedure (for the better IMHO) check out:
    http://vwcaddyforum.com/showthread.p...6885#post56885
    /edit

    This should do the trick but if you are having trouble finding 5th (if there is a 5th) then like Iowa said, you are a victim of an incomplete conversion. Almost all the linkage parts for the 5 spd are different, including the reverse lockout assbly. though some people will try to tell you that the things are interchangeable. Things that are the same are shift stick, shift rod, relay shaft and bracket, relay lever (I think that's what you call a bellcrank) and all the bushings and stuff.

    If you find the stop finger is keeping you from getting into 5th due to being set up for a 4 spd and you have the proper 5spd linkage parts, you can fix it by hitting up the top of the stop finger with the dremel or grinder and taking off that clearish plastic. It will give you enough extra travel to let you cruise down the highway in 5th. Good luck

    Now that I write this I notice you are UK and I am wondering if you guys even had the 4spd over there[] since by the time the pickup left our shores I think that they were mostly coming with the 5. Anyhow alignment procedure still applies

    Boy, now I also see that if you just follow the link that Iowa's got there, he has all the parts that I listed and [u]part numbers</u> [] So yeah, I guess I'm pretty much saying about the parts what Iowa said a couple months back, sorry.
    hello i need to modify the stop fingers but theres two spots where theres that plastic covering. one on the top and one on the bottom that touches the stop gate. which plastic piece is getting removed? thank you!!!!

  17. #17
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by areabaylove View Post
    hello i need to modify the stop fingers but theres two spots where theres that plastic covering. one on the top and one on the bottom that touches the stop gate. which plastic piece is getting removed? thank you!!!!


    Nearly 4750 days ago!

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